Hello
Just like that, we’re back. Welcome to another edition of BTB, where we chill our reds, complain about how god-forsakenly hot it is, and do a third thing I can’t think of. Sorry, it’s been a long week.
This is a bit out of the ordinary, but right up top, I’d like to correct a grave mistake I made last week: I didn’t recommend 'The White Lotus' in this newsletter. This HBO show is… unbelievably good. It’s sad, hilarious and a bit strange all at the same time.
If you’re interested in learning more before you watch it, The New Yorker’s Naomi Fry, one of my favorite writers, has a great piece on the show linked here. Warning: there are spoilers.
Anyway, with that glaring error corrected, let’s get to it.
The Q&A
David Rodriguez and Victor Sanchez are the guys behind Bummer Wines, a natural wine club in Chicago. As they put it on the website, they’re, 'two friends who love drinking wine without the additives they can’t pronounce.'
The 33-year-olds recognized that the world of natural wine, and really, wine in general can seem like an inaccessible, exclusive thing that’s hard to approach.
The Pilsen-based club offers a monthly subscription with which you get two bottles of wine along with pairing advice. Right now, subscriptions are sold out, but you can sign up to be notified when more are available — I didn’t even get any special treatment here, I’m still waiting to sign myself up. Unbelievable, guys. Luckily, the club is introducing a non-subscription option for two curated bottles per month, in addition to, or in lieu of, the subscription option.
David, Victor and I set up in David’s backyard in [undisclosed location], got mauled by mosquitos, ate a little charcuterie and drank two fantastic bottles of wine — a BTB first. BTB Squared? I don’t know.
The Bottles: Matassa’s VDF Rouge Olla Rouge 2020 and Matassa’s VDF Blanc Cuvée Marguerite 2020.
A quick shoutout to Elise Bang, internet friend and fellow Substacker (subscribe to twenty three tabs!), for introducing me to Bummer Wines and putting in a good word.
Here we go.
This interview took place on July 31, 2021, and has been edited and condensed for clarity.
SN: Who are you guys, and what is Bummer Wines?
DR: I’m David, co-owner of Bummer Wines, a Pilsen-based natural wine club. I also work in marketing. I’m originally from the Bay Area in California and moved to Chicago for grad school, and I’ve been here for about 10 years.
VS: I’m Victor, also co-owner of Bummer Wines, and my full-time job is in advertising. I grew up just west of Pilsen, where I live now. Our elevator pitch is: Bummer Wines is a natural wine club and our ethos is focused on supporting minority-owned, family-owned and small-batch wineries. We really put an emphasis on taking time to research producers and their practices. Two bottles a month for $65, and you can currently get them in Pilsen and Ukrainian Village.
SN: Got it. And what are we drinking today?
VS: We’re drinking two bottles from Domaine Matassa, which is pretty popular and can be kind of hard to get. You usually see the new vintages like once a year in the summertime. Right now, we’re drinking their Olla Rouge, which is a mostly Grenache, super light, delicious —
DR: Chillable.
VS: — Yeah, chillable red. Our second bottle is their skin contact blanc that they have kind of every year. It’s a good, classic orange wine. We love everything that Tom Lubbe at Matassa does. He’s like a wine rockstar.
DR: I don’t know if I could make eye contact with him.
VS: Same. Any time you see Matassa, grab it because it’s going to be good. If I see that a shop in Chicago gets some, I’ll go and snatch it up because within a week it’ll be gone.
SN: I don’t know if I’ve ever seen it on a shop shelf, which seems like a solid indicator that it’s great. So how did Bummer Wines come to be?
VS: I was into wine, and then I got really into natural wine a couple of years ago. I became a little obsessed with learning more about various winemakers and unique wines that were different from just the average Pinot Noir or Cabernet Sauvignon. The classics are good too, but getting into natural wine was eye-opening and exciting. I probably ended up talking David’s ear off about natural wine.
DR: Yup. That’s how I got into it.
VS: Like four years ago when orange wine was just starting to get popular, I had some friends over for an orange wine barbecue. I just told everyone to bring orange wine when most people were still like, 'What the heck is this? Are there oranges in it?' Then when I moved to Pilsen from Bucktown, we realized there weren't really any places to get natural wine.
We learned more and found out there are a ton of Mexican natural winemakers, and they’re really good. It didn’t make sense to us that there wasn’t any availability of natural wine over here, in Pilsen.
There’s a lot of gatekeeping around wine, and even natural wine where the whole aura is supposed to be that it’s 'super casual.' There’s still a lot of feelings of, like, ‘This is our thing, not yours,' in natural wine. So we’re trying to break that down, and even if we don’t, we just want to make our own space for it.
So we were like, fuck it, let’s just launch our own thing.
SN: How did you guys get into wine?
VS: My interest started in college, I think. It was very casual, I just bought my bottles at Trader Joe’s, but I think I liked drinking wine, maybe more than some of my friends. They’d probably be drinking, like, PBRs and —
DR: You like PBRs…
VS: Yeah, I do like PBRs, but I was just like, opening bottles of Malbec more often. As time went on, I got more into it because wine seemed like such an intimidating topic and I hate not knowing about things I’m interested in.
DR: My first taste of wine was the blood of Christ. I went to Catholic school, and so I had this feeling of, 'This stuff is sacred.' But I didn’t really like it.
The next time it came into my life was also in college. I went to Sonoma State, right in the heart of Napa Valley. All the dorms on campus were named after wine varietals — I lived in Beaujolais. But again, I had no interest in it.
Being an art major, it was like, at every art opening you were always asked, 'Red or white?' I was like 'I don’t know. This one doesn’t make my teeth red, so, I’ll drink this one.' I think that experience actually made me averse to wine.
If you went into Napa Valley, everything was expensive and I took that away as, ‘Okay, wine is part of that world: I don’t drive a nice car, like, I don’t collect art, I make art.' It felt like opposite ends of the spectrum, and very inaccessible.
When Victor got really into natural wine, and to go back to that party, I told my friend about it and we were like, 'Okay, do we have to dress in citrus colors?' We thought it was wine made from oranges. So Victor kept telling me about it, and he’d drink it all the time around me.
Then the idea came up to like, open a wine shop, I forgot how…
VS: I think you really got into the happenings within the wine industry, and just how gate-kept it is.
DR: Yeah. I think it makes me hope that the people who join our club have an experience like the one I did through Victor. I was intimidated by wine. I didn’t think I could really enjoy it without knowing more than I knew at the time.
So when it became accessible, I was like, 'Woah, this world just opened up for me.' Then when Victor started talking about opening a wine club, I said 'for sure' because it had been such a good experience for me, and I think people want that.
Plus, Pilsen is predominantly Mexican, and I don’t know if the neighborhood is aware that a lot of great wines come from their region, and they’re being made by people who don’t even consider themselves vintners or winemakers. They’ll say, 'We’re just farmers, and wine is something that we make as well.'
VS: Yeah, I’m Mexican and, just personally, my family never really drank wine. Or at least it was very rare. We had tons of tequila available — which is great — but as a first-generation Mexican, my introduction to wine definitely came as a young adult to now, so it’s been an interesting exploration.
But as David said, it’s happening in Mexico, so we’re trying to spread that knowledge to let people know that their own country is making some amazing wines.
SN: Is that kind of the reasoning for your focus on small-batch, minority-owned wineries? I know you have a focus on wine from Latin America too.
VS: I think it probably has to do with us being minorities, there’s definitely a connection there. Like I said, I’m Mexican, and I obviously knew about Argentinan and Chilean wines, the big wine regions in Latin America, but when I found out Mexico had good wine I was like, 'Oh shit, Mexico has good wine. That’s awesome, I had no idea, I want to tell everyone.'
I think based on our backgrounds it became part of the mission.
DR: For sure. Being part of an immigrant family, and especially in Filipino culture, like, we’ll claim you even if you’re one-sixteenth Filipino. Tiger Woods? Vanessa Hudgens? Jessica Alba? We’re claiming you.
So that said, when you’re seeing someone that’s like you, doing something that you’re into, it’s easier to put yourself in that space. It’s easier to say, 'I can do that,' or, 'I can get into this.'
SN: What are your thoughts on accessibility right now in both natural wine, and the wine industry as a whole? Have we moved forward? And how do we keep improving?
VS: I think, overall, there are new natural wine shops popping up a lot, but it’s still kind of new for people in our generation, and for young people in general, to be super into natural wine.
I think people were used to just going to bars and drinking beer, or whatever. I mean, craft beer was such a 'thing' and a movement in its own right, but now it’s become a super popular option.
That’s to say, I think accessibility in natural wine has definitely improved, not only in terms of people just knowing about it but in volume and the number of shops you can find it in.
However, there’s still work to be done culturally. Inclusivity and accessibility are two different things.
DR: I think accessibility is such a huge battle, and it’ll be going on for a while. Wine is such an old institution, and I do think there’s progress being made, but there’s still a lot of work to be done.
I definitely see more people kind of, 'knocking at the door' of the industry and trying to create a space that will allow more people to get into it. So that’s been great to see, and it’s cool to think that we can maybe be a part of that.
VS: In terms of moving forward, I think some of that is happening already. There are organizations where their whole mission is just to increase education. We definitely need more of that. I think Slik Wines does great work in that space. Natural Action is awesome too. They’re a non-profit wine club that helps fund education and exposure for BIPOC in wine. Education is definitely key.
DR: Awareness too. Like, making sure people know that natural wine is out there, but also that you don’t have to know everything. All you have to know is that this is how wine was originally made, there’s nothing added, there’s nothing taken away.
VS: Yes, for sure. Making people aware that this is a chill space, with a need for more minority voices while letting them know that they can have a voice in this community.
DR: The more people who are aware that this is out there, the more likely they are to ask about it at restaurants and wine shops. Eventually, any sound-minded business person will recognize that there’s a demand for this.
SN: Awesome. When you’re choosing the two bottles every month, how do you go about that?
VS: I mean, it’s stuff that we like, but it’s also about seasonality. We know what people are looking for during different times of the year, so for summer we usually have lighter stuff.
Honestly, it’s really an extension of our favorites. We want you to try what we like. We won’t say, 'Oh, this wine is cheaper, let’s put it in the club.' We only use wines that we’re actually drinking and enjoying.
DR: I mean, that’s the big selling point. You know, we’re not operating on a resume of working with winemakers or having any professional experience. It’s really just, 'Yeah, here’s what we like,' so it has to be good.
VS: Right. Beyond those components, it’s also trying to stick to that ethos of minority- and family-owned producers. So those factors all play a part for sure.
Some of these distributors don’t even have websites, so it’s almost like a scavenger hunt. I fall into rabbit holes on the internet doing research on these wines and who distributes them.
SN: Rad. Speaking of bottles, how would you describe what we’re drinking now, Matassa’s Olla Rouge and Cuvée Marguerite, to the layperson?
VS: The Olla Rouge is pretty berry forward, pretty light, very chillable. It’s a wine we’ve had before, and it’s a complement to a casual barbecue setting. It’s refreshing, fruit forward, slightly dry, not super sweet, summertime wine.
DR: It’s kind of a stereotype for people who are into natural wines, but, chillable reds are sick. I think, if you’re a basic bitch like me, reds always come off as very serious, rich and heavy. So a chillable red is just a fun idea, and when it’s well-executed like this one, it’s great.
VS: For the Cuvée Marguerite, it’s kind of a textbook lychee, stone fruity, macerated orange wine. It has a complexity that you’d expect from a more 'serious' wine, but it’s really just a fun orange. There’s a very small hint of funkiness to this, but I wouldn’t describe it as a funky wine.
DR: For sure. It’s a little tart, and it has some body to it, it’s great.
SN: Chicago wine stores better watch out. I’m buying any and all Matassa wines any time I see them. What would be your food pairing for both bottles in terms of the 'height of luxury'? Think, fancy, gourmet dining.
VS: The thing with pairings that we’ve learned is there is sort of a general, guided direction of what should go with what. But honestly, if I were to go out for a nice dinner, I love seafood and I could actually see the Olla Rouge being delicious with a beautiful, grilled sea bass. I would actually drink both of these with that.
DR: That sounds awesome. I would probably pair the Olla Rouge with pasta, maybe a rabbit pasta specifically. We had this amazing rabbit pasta when we went to Mexico City, it was incredible.
VS: With the orange, I love to drink orange wines with spicy food. I would probably go with some really amazing Chinese food.
DR: I would love to drink the orange with some ceviche, on a beach. Really turn the citrus up to 11.
SN: And how about a 'for the masses' pairing? Think a Tuesday takeout night, or your favorite junk foods.
DR: Pizza.
VS: Should we go even more casual?
DR: Alright, bagel bites.
VS: Great, we’re going from rabbit ragu to bagel bites.
DR: I think the Olla Rouge would go great with a McChicken. I also think anything goes great with a McChicken. Pizza is also a great choice for this, and really most light reds.
For the orange wine? A Filet-O-Fish.
VS: For the orange wine, I would absolutely Taco Bell that. I wouldn’t even need to be drunk.
DR: It’s sacrilegious to eat Taco Bell without Baja Blast, though.
VS: Whatever, I’d drink it with Taco Bell.
SN: What are the ideal 'situational pairings' for these bottles? Where are you and what’s going on?
VS: For the Olla Rouge, at home. Maybe in the backyard, or in a park. We always bring this red to barbecues. For the orange, take it to the beach, picnic it with a spread of cheeses.
These are both just peak, summer wines.
DR: Definitely outdoors for both of them. Surrounded by friends, people you care about, sharing something that you know is good.
SN: Nice. What do you guys do for fun?
DR: Besides doing the creative stuff for Bummer Wines, I have a studio with my girlfriend. I like to draw, paint, whatever. Outside of that, I like to ride my bike, go to the lake, reading is always great. In the pandemic, I’ve been playing a lot of video games.
VS: It’s corny, but honestly Bummer Wines was started for fun. I love drinking wines and cooking. I get excited to buy a bottle of wine with the idea that I’m going to make a meal with it. I’m also really into furniture, and I’ve been starting to collect certain pieces. I love design, so that’s been fun. I also got a dog right before the pandemic so I’ve been obsessed with him.
SN: What have you been watching?
VS: My partner and I just started watching The Sopranos. It’s a phenomenal show.
DR: I’ve been watching a lot of stuff that I’ve already watched. During the pandemic, I kind of decided that I can’t take the anxiety of watching a bunch of new stuff. So I’ve been watching a ton of YouTube videos. Oh, 'Exterminate All the Brutes' on HBO was great.
SN: What have you been reading?
VS: I’m reading Kitchen Confidential by Anthony Bourdain and I read the New York Times every day.
DR: Every summer I like to reread Cannery Row by John Steinbeck. He’s really good with environmental description and since he’s a tried and true Californian, the way he describes Monterey Bay and the Central Coast is very transportive to me.
SN: What have you been listening to?
VS: My music spectrum is a bit manic. I love A. G. Cook and Caroline Polachek, but also I’ve been listening to boleros music, which is like what my grandmother used to listen to. It’s very chill. Good for drinking wine.
DR: I like playlists. I’ve been listening to a ton of Numero Groups’ playlists. Eccentric Disco is a great one. The Blindboy Podcast is awesome too.
SN: Favorite Chicago Bar? One Each.
VS: If I had to pick a favorite, based on history, it would probably have to be Rainbo Club.
DR: I have to say MONEYGUN. Their drinks are really good and I like that it’s speakeasy-ish. But I think my history would probably suggest that it’s actually Punch House.
SN: If you’re not drinking wine, what are you drinking?
DR: ……. Fruity cocktails. I like mezcal drinks.
VS: I love a dirty gin martini.
DR: If I’m at a dive bar, my move is a cranberry vodka. I’m living my truth.
VS: I give him so much shit for that.
DR: Everyone does. No one questioned me in California.
SN: Live your truth, David. Guys, where can people follow you, and what should they look out for?
VS: They should follow us on Instagram, @bummerwines, sign up for the newsletter on bummer-wines.com and… oh, we have a TikTok —
DR: Off the record, dude, off the record. Making content on TikTok is so fucking hard.
VS: Yeah, it’s difficult. Also, events are going to be a big thing coming up. We’re going to be doing a lot more, and we’ll announce those on the newsletter and on Instagram. Plus we’re working on getting delivery going and finding more ways to get people their wines.
We have a big thing coming up in September too. We’re helping to launch a brand new wine from Matty Colston’s label, Colston Biblio. We’re working with a local creative agency, Varyer on the project and it’ll go live on our website on September 1. We’re going to do a wine dinner around it, we’re thinking.
SN: Amazing. I’ll be looking out for that. Thanks for your time, guys!
The afters
This was a fun one. I hope you all enjoyed it as much as I did. I’m not joking when I say I’m joining the Bummer club as soon as I see an opening is available.
Folks, it’s been… a week. On Tuesday, Chicago got hit by what I can only describe as a semi-monsoon. It was insane. Somba and I were on a walk and got caught in the crosshairs of this wild storm. We took shelter in the entryway of a nearby IHOP until the wind died down a notch. Below is a photo of us in the lobby of our apartment, just absolutely soaked. It sucked. I hope your week was better.
Anyway, it’s time for the weekend. Some recommendations are below.
Here are a few recommendations for this weekend and beyond. If a bottle isn’t available for shipping, see if your local shop has it. If they don’t, ask about getting it in stock! Of course, store owners rely heavily on their own tastes, but they’re interested in knowing what you want to see on the shelves as well.
A note: As with buying anything online, read the shipping fine print before you pay. Some sites may not ship to certain areas, or shipping may be unreasonably expensive.
Couvent Rouge Leb Nat Gold 2019
This was… amazing. Pet nats are usually pretty cool, sparkling-ish wines with some interesting flavors and looks. This one is special to me, personally, since it’s from the Bekka Valley in Lebanon and I am a Lebanese person. This bottle is filled with flavors like apple, apricots and a million other things, including some lovely carbonation. Buy it here and locally.
Matassa Wines — just, any of them.
I know this might seem like kind of a cop-out since we just talked about them a bunch with the Bummer Wines guys, but I haven’t been able to get them out of my head. They’re haunting me. I’m starting to have hallucinations in wine stores. I’ll see the labels out of the corner of my eye, but then turn to find an empty shelf. It’s a waking nightmare. Please, I’m begging you. Find them and buy them.
Some things I read this week that you may be interested in:
San Francisco Chronicle — There's wine. Then there's natural wine. Then there's 'zero-zero' wine
The Wall Street Journal — What Climate Change Might Do to Your Favorite Wine
The New York Times — Settling Scores at a Fist-Fighting Festival in the Peruvian Andes
The New York Times — Why Do American Grocery Stores Still Have an Ethnic Aisle?
The New York Times — Lovely Weather Defined California. What Happens When It’s Gone?
The New York Times — No Work, No Food: Pandemic Deepens Global Hunger
Some tunes to soundtrack your weekend:
Still Woozy’s new album (FINALLY), If This Isn’t Nice, I Don’t Know What Is
I’ve been relistening to this classic Stan Getz and João Gilberto album non-stop, Getz/Gilberto (Expanded Edition)
Blonder’s new single, Teeth
Let’s put a bow on this and call it good. Go forth and be well, folks.
-Sam